There’s a charming sense of whimsy to M at the Fringe’s design. Housed in the red-bricked Fringe Club building, the space is small and curvaceous, dotted with an abundance of flowers. The cutlery has old bone handles and each table has a different vintage silver tray for postcards and leaflets. This is a homely space put together with much love.

The food is sensibly well-handled, never too showy and always prepared in ways to take advantage of the natural flavours of the ingredients. It’s not the sexiest of menus but that’s not the point here. This is a restaurant which you make your home, where you learn the names of their quaintly middle-aged waiters and return to time and time again for a Hong Kong eating experience.