Dimsum here could not be anymore different from dimsum at Lin Heung Tea House. The noise levels are similarly high but that is where all common ground ends. Where Lin Heung was about rough, homely food, Victoria Seafood is about sophistication and intelligently created dimsum that teases your palate. The luomaikai (glutenous rice dumpling) was a sumptious package of soft sticky glutinous rice with a centre of sweetly flavoured meat. The char siew cheung fan was soft and slippery with hints of green parsley to lift the sweetness of the barbecued pork. The xiaolongbao was ridiculously expensive but the best I’ve tasted outside of Shanghai!

Other good things to try: a white radish cake delicately soft and beautifully flavoured, an XO cheung fan and to end the meal, go for the pomelo-mango sago milk. The acidity of the pomelo cuts across the sweetness of the mango and richness of the milk to leave your mouth pleasingly refreshed. It’s an elegant enough restaurant to encourage lingering but the tables are too close to one another for true comfort, especially as it is often packed to the rafters with a queue outside. Get in, dig in and get out!